Sorry I didnt have internet for a few days so you might get a wave of posts coming soon! Lots to write about from hippies who live in a van, shooting stars and midnite dinners after the bars (just a preview)
I think Ive been brainwashed. All of a sudden I not only can stand the 70s funk that is constantly blasting through the speakers, but I think I actually like it. I hear my favorite songs come on and I can sing along and laugh when Sandro dances terribly. I also love pulling weeds. What is that? I get an odd sense of satisfaction as I hear and feel the roots pulling from the soil and I leave green destruction in my wake. Maybe its all the parts put together...the sound of crunching roots, the wonderful feeling of mud coating my fingers, the sun hot on my neck and billie holiday belting into my ears.
On Wednesday night Sandro and I had dinner at the veterinarians house (father of the bike riding boys). Saying this was the most delicious feast I have ever had the honor of partaking in is an understatement. Once again, Italy was on a crusade to turn me into a hippopotamus as I was served enough food to sate Tommy and Mark's (my enormous brothers) Thanksgiving eating contests. We started off with red wine and fresh baked bread and a platter of melon and proscuitto (my very favorite). We then dove into the most delicious bean casserole-white beans, herbs and tuna. Next came the home made fettucine, cooked with plentiful sovory asparagus and pancetta. I usually stay away from asparagus (it turns your pee neon yellow) but My God was this asparagus good! Now at this point I was on my way to explosion, but the Italians didnt seem to notice as a pan full of roast chicken, sausage and golden fried potatoes was placed in front of me. I crammed as much crunchy meat into my mouth as was humanly possible and helped myself to two servings of potatoes that could make Ronald McDonald cry with envy. At this point I was tempted to follow in Chucks wise footsteps and unbluckle my belt (if I were wearing one) so I could make room for more food). We then feasted on Fresh tomato slices, mozarrella and basil drizzled in oil and out of the warm oven came heaven in a dish...a perfectly made fig pie. O Mio Dio! Pie was accompanied by gelato and cafe and the evening was finished with a shot or two of grappa. I'm quite sure that one dinner can not get any better. The Italians got it right...they know how to enjoy their food and they induglge their tummies with patience, letting dinner span into the late night or early hours of the morning.
I must look like a body builder to the Italians. I have gotten so many comments about how I am a strong girl that I am starting to think I must have muscle veins popping out of my neck like a weight lifter on steroids. On one visit into Rome, the same man who asked me to live with him, looked at me and said "you are a strong girl". Now to me, thats a strange comment. And the boys. My riding team thinks I am so strong that one of the boys even asked if he culd feel my calf muscle. Their father assures me that its not because I look like a barbaric xena warrior, but rather they know I am strong because (in their opinion), I run super fast-to the bar of the next town and back. Gianpoalo especially thinks I am strong as he noted at dinner that my arms are strong, my legs are strong, my stomach is strong and even my neck is strong. But this is also the boy who is entranced by my hair (I once caught him kissing it).
So wonderful news-I havent gained weight! Or if I have, it isnt much. Preparing myself for devastation, I tried on a pair of shorts and a pair of pants that fit me just right before I left for Italy. I pulled them up my legs (success), fit them over my butt (again success), zipped the zipper (Am I dreaming?) and then buttoned the button (incredible!). I actually ran from my room, grinning like a fool and shouted at Sandro (Italy hasnt made me fat yet!). That was a good day.
On Tuesday, Sandro's father Venicio came home with us. Sandro's mother is around the age of 50 while Venicio is at the ripe old age of 80. He is full of stories and boasts of his treasured museum, found to the side of Sandro's garage. The museum is unbelievable, worthy of the pictures I took, as it houses old wood covered wagons, weaving looms, african machetes and arrows and pictures from the 1940s of himself with american indians. The objects he has acquired over the years are incredible, and I especially loved the books that dated as far back as 1857. He is letting me read an old french book from 1927. Anya if I could take it for you, I would in a second...what a birthday present that would be! Even at the age of 80, Venicio has not lost his work ethic, and I see him clearing away weeds for a bocci court under the hot sun or axing at weeds beside his museum. Speaking of bocci, the pro that I am, I beat Venicio at his favorite game yesterday (a close win of 5-4). O the sweet taste of victory.
After four weeks in Cannetto Sabino I have become somewhat of a regular at the local bar and when I arrive in the mornings, without being asked, the bartender prepares a creamy cappucino for me. Ive always wanted to say "Ill have the usual" and that day has finally come! On our way back from errands the other night, we ran into Aurelio (the oldest man in Cannetto) and he again gave me presents of fresh, succulent fruit. When I thanked him he told Sandro that he requires no thanks because my presence is like the gift of fresh fruit (so he is just returning the favor). He also told Sandro that we look beautiful together and should get married. Hahaha. Aurelio makes me think of the blue butted baboon Rafiki in the lion king because I can just imagine him shouting and dancing around with his walking stick if he ever saw me and Sandro so much as hug. I Dont really know why I think of Rafiki, but I just think of the reaction the baboon has when he finds out Simba is alive...I think Aurelio is capable of the same crazy dancing and monkey hollering.
Most nights after I have doused my arms and legs in bugspray, I ask Sandro to tell me a story. I dont ask because I like the stories (although Im sure I would if I understood the words), but rather because the Italian is like a lullabye, beautiful word after beautiful word falling from his lips. Italian is enchanting and I find myself lost in thoughtless trances when I hear italian spoken around me.
Yesterday Sandro, Matteo and I drove to Toffia, a nearby medieval town that rivals the beauty of Fara Sabina. Again with narrow cobble stoned streets, flowers hanging from iron windowsills and big wooden doors, I was convinced that someday fate would lead me to live in this beautiful town. Set high up on a mountain, I would be safe from brutal vikings, barbaric xenas and enticing ronald mcDonalds in my stone fortressed medieval village. The views were incredible, looking out over the entire valley and the streets were a series of twists and turns, stairs and bumps that a volkswagon would have trouble driving down. Before we left, we made our way through the confusing streets to Sandro's friends house. We were greeted by a shoeless man, wearing brown linen pants, a button down floral shirt and many earrings and rings. His house smelled of incense, was decorated with brightly colored tapestries and weed and herbs were strewn across the table. He was a hippie at heart and had moved from Wales to Italy to pursue his career in theater. I sat in his home, listening to reggae and breathing in herby fumes and all I could think about were two people very dear to me: Lily Merat and Roy Cutler. I thought of Lily because I imagine her living in a home very similar to the one I was sitting in. I picture her sitting at an old wooden table, surrounded by friends, reggae and the smell of incense and herbs. I was sitting in her future. I thought of Roy because I imagined him meeting this man and becoming instant friends. I couldnt stop thinking about how perfect it would be for them to talk of their bands, their passion for theater and their world experiences.
We went to the open market on Sunday morning (every Sunday morning I can be heard singing "sunday morning" by Maroon Five nonstop) where hundreds of tents were set up along the road and in the field, creating a maze of shoes, toys and fresh cheese. On Sunday they have a special market where they sell animals and I felt a bit terribe about leaning against the fences and peering into the cages at these poor animals who constantly get poked and touched and cooed at by annoying women who reek of perfume. As we stood watching the beautiful cows and horses, I couldnt stop thinking about slave trading and how incredibly awful that time must have been. But anyways, all of the animals were beautiful and I loved the smell of hay, manure and fresh air. There were pink pigs, adorable bunnies, puppies, baby ducks, chickens, cows, horses, ponies, mules, donkeys, mice...just about anything you could ever want. It was such a weird experience, people walking around with cotton candy and sausages as they bought cows, pans from the man who was doing a live cooking demonstration on microphone, fresh meat and toy cars. After Sandro carefully picked out five chickens (he always buys an odd number because he hates having an even number of anything) we ventured to the fresh food area of the market. There was bottled olive oil, yellow wheels of cheese, strings of sausage and snails in baskets. I was lured to the stand with fresh tapenade spreads and after trying them all I chose a light orange organic dip made from zuchini...soooo good! After, I left Sandro with his friends and found my weakness..shoes. There were so many beautiful pairs of shoes but of course (seeing as Im a xena warrior giant) the Italians dont accomodate gigantor feeted Americans very well. With a size nine foot, or size 40, it was quite difficult finding a pair that fit my feet. But after minutes of searching I found an adorable pair of green high heels and I couldnt resist buying them since they were only 6E! Might as well take advantage of an opportunity when it comes along.
That night I went to a country horse show with Matteo's girlfriend Elena. On the way to the show we talked about soccer in Italy and how it is very hard to gain respect as a female player. She said that in Italy soccer is considered solely a men's sport and that any women who play have to endure endless jokes and frustrating comments. Women soccer players are considered manly, lesbian or just strange. Man, I think I would go crazy in Italy! If any guy tried to make fun of me for playing the country's national sport, I would just have to school him with my skills. At home, I get some comments from ignorant and stupid guys who think I cant keep up with them, but after a few times of playing with them it usually gets better. One of my friends at Skidmore wrote a paper on the stereotypes and obstacles of female athletes and during the interview I told her that for a girl, almost always you are considered bad until you prove that you are good and any guy is considered good until he proves that he is not. But at least in America I have that chance to prove myself.
I usually don't enjoy horse shows or horse races, but this show was much different. It was a small ring in the absolute middle of nowhere. We sat on the grass hill in front of the ring which was surrounded by blue mountains, green fields and the setting sun. Everyone was wearing cowboy hats and eating peanuts and we all cheered as the horses executed the jumps and turns perfectly. That night we returned to Sandro's house where we had a barbecue with 15 of his closest friends. We made a fire in the back yard and made a make-shift grill with an iron grate. We ate sausages, sides of pork, pototoes and whole onions, charred to perfection, and drank wine with oiled bread. Reggae blasted from the stereo and we all sat around on wooden benches enjoying our feast. At the end of the night I held Chloe, our friends little baby girl. I rocked back and forth with the sleeping baby, singing lullabyes and rubbing her little toes. She was beautiful. So believe it or not, even with all the wine I drink everyday, last night was the first night I have been drunk. Not too drunk mind you, but drunk enough to be very tired and see the stars spin around me. I definitely don't miss getting drunk and Im definitely not ready for school parties to start up yet. But no worries, I woke up perfectly fine and healthy, not one second of a hangover to show for my cups of wine the night before :)
Until next time, much love,
Bella
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